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St. Mang’s Abbey, across the Lech.

Stephen Guides Museum Tours

Magnus of Füssen, missionary and dragon slayer, died in the mid-8th century. When his uncorrupted corpse was discovered in the 9th century, the cleric was canonized and St. Mang’s Abbey founded. The abbey was home to a community of Benedictine monks for a thousand years, until it was dissolved in the German mediatisation at the end of the Holy Roman Empire.

I am happy to announce that, in addition to tours to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles, I now also guide private tours at the Füssen Town Museum. Contact me for booking details.

Today, the former abbey houses the town’s administrative center, its library, and museum. Exhibits in the Füssen Town Museum reveal the history of the abbey and of the town, beginning with the town’s establishment, in the 1st century, as an important trade center situated on the Lech river and the Roman road Via Claudia Augusta. Displays of lutes, violins, and organs showcase Füssen’s importance as an instrument-making center of Europe throughout the medieval period, and a series of expositions and annotated photographs documents its entry into the industrial age.

On the museum tour, we explore the exhibits and the building itself, which is as much a historical artifact as the antiquities exposed within it. We delve into the excavated ruins of the monastery cloister. We discover its library and refectory; we marvel at the stucco sculptures and frescoes in the lavish Emperor’s Hall, and in the 17th-century St. Anne’s Chapel, we look upon the oldest existing Danse Macabre in Bavaria.

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Once Was a Legend…

Last year, in an article reproduced from DONJON LANDS, I recount a local legend that tells how to find the dungeons under Neuschwanstein Castle. The legend suggests that the wintertime sun, coming in at a low angle, shines into “a cavernous portal of unknown depth.”

I imagined the scene from the bridge at noon on the hibernal solstice: Sunlight streaming between mountain peaks to penetrate an otherwise hidden passage neath the castle. A glimpse of writhing tentacles or some scaled horror of the underworld.

Come winter, I thought to be able to confirm the legend. Winter in Bavaria, though, is cold and snowy. So, the bridge is closed for much of the season. Furthermore, clouds often shroud the sun, diffusing its light to a blue-gray glow.

On December 21, 2024, the sun rose into a bright cerulean Bavarian sky. Freezing temperatures brought snow and ice in the previous week, closing the bridge for the coming days.

The photo above, taken at 12:20 p.m.—two hours after the solstice—shows the castle in the mountain’s shadow. The photo below was taken from the bridge two months prior, October 25 at 10:16 a.m. Already the castle’s nether regions are obscured.

If the earth tilts back toward the sun at the same rate it titled away, we won’t see any legendary entrance below the castle until well after February. So much for the legend.

Continue ReadingOnce Was a Legend…